Some contractors are intimidated by sanding and finishing parquet flooring, but once you know the correct process, there's really nothing to it, and you can apply that technique to new or existing floors. Just be comfortable with the fact that, at some point, you will be going against the grain, which means you have to be that much more diligent making sure cross-grain scratches don't show in the end product. Some contractors use random orbital sanders, oscillating sanders or three-disc sanders for parquet, because direction doesn't matter with these machines. But even working with a big machine is still fairly easy. This particular floor poses some difficulties because it's in a small space, will have stain on it and is in a well-lit, high-traffic area. Another concern is we don't know how many times this thin, solid seven-finger parquet has been sanded. If we take off too much wood, we might expose tongues and grooves, so we need to make our cuts as efficient as possible. We start with the highest grit we can that will effectively take off the old coating, and go as fine as we can Every contractor should use his own judgement on what grit to use.

RELATED: The Basics of Sanding Wood Flooring


  • Big machine
  • Buffer
  • Edger
  • Abrasives
  • Hand-scraper
  • Maroon pad
  • Hard-plate
  • T-bar or other applicator
  • Cut-in pad
  • Finish

Step 1


Our first pass is with a 40-grit belt on the big machine. We go diagonally to most of the grain to prevent as much cross-grain sanding as possible while still flattening the floor. If we attacked the floor straight like a strip floor, we would dish out the softer grain (spring wood), causing humps.

Step 2


Our second pass is with a 60-grit at 45 degrees moving on the opposite diagonal. We're diligent about not skipping grits, particularly when sanding at a 45 on parquet—which is a very aggressive cut —because otherwise we couldn't get out the scratches caused by previous grits.

Step 3


To make sure the floor is flat, for our third pass, we use an 80-grit abrasive along the longest part of the room. This direction is the main focal point for this hallway, and we want to minimize grain scratches. Because of the fine grit, we don't have to worry about dishout when going directly across the grain.

Step 4


Next we edge, starting with a 40 grit and following the same grit sequence. We change the angle of the edger to go in the direction of the grain to take out the big machine's scratch. Another option would be to begin edging with a 60 grit after the second big machine pass (if the abrasive doesn't start gumming up with coating too fast).

Step 5


We then use an appropriate filler to fill the gaps of this old flooring, letting it thoroughly dry before buffing. This step may also be done prior to the final cut of the big machine. Or, you could trowel-fill the entire floor, as this will show any uneveness or spots that you should go back to after a final sanding.

Step 6


We hand-scrape the corners, going with the grain in each square of the parquet.

Step 7


Our first buffing pass is with a 120-grit disc backed by a hard-plate. We use the same buffing pattern as we would on strip flooring. Our next buffer pass is with a 120-grit screen backed with a thin white driving pad and hard-plate. (Thicker cushioning under the screen could cause dishout, as could screening without a hardplate.) We avoid overscreening, which also causes dishout.


Step 8


We mixed a stain to match the homeowner's adjoining floors. It would be inefficient to apply stain square by square with the grain, so by wiping on and wiping off in circles, we hit most of the squares with the grain. While we're on our knees, we check for any sanding imperfections and undesirable scratches that we can take out with hand-sanding or scraping.

Step 9


We use a cut-in pad and then a T-bar to coat the floor with an oil-based urethane. We apply in the longest direction of the room, which is the focal point. This coating will level itself out and won't show finish streaks against the grain. (It would be impractical to coat each square individually to go with the grain.)

Step 10


After letting the finish dry per the manufacturer's instructions, we screen with 120-grit and then handsand around the edges of the room and corners. For the hand-sanding, we go in the same direction of the grain of each square of parquet. We then hand-scrape out any finish imperfections.

Step 11


Finally, we buff with a maroon pad. You can also use an 80-grit screen instead for this step. After vacuuming and wet-tacking the floor, we coat the floor again.

See more on this topic: Wood Floor Sanding


Chris Palmer is owner of Madison, Wis.-based contracting company Imperial Wood Floors.
you mentioned using an appropriate filler to flood fill parquetry. which type or brand of filler is easily sandable using a buffing machine?
I love parquet. This site is very good. Useful article.
I believe is missing a step 7.5. I will call (water pop up). When you apply a regular water, it make very easy to apply stain or poly. It do not make any kind of marks. I never do a parquet finish without water pop-up. If you look at last photo (step 11) have a lot difference in color between boards.
Andre, Check out our article about staining at for more on popping the grain.
Honestly, if it is a small foyer like the one above, I would just edge the entire thing. Start with a 40 or 60 grit, 80, then orbital sand with a 500 watt work light so there would be no chance of cross grain scratches or any scratches for that matter. Anybody who tries to cross cut the grain with a big machine is taking a chance, especially with stain. I'd be willing to bet Chris left 45 cuts as well as 90 cuts all over that floor. Not to mention edger marks and flat pan marks. PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RESAND PARQUET FLOORS. We are not intimidated, we just know better.
well Steve, sounds like you know what you are doing. So what do you think of parquet? For some reason I think of parquet as so 1980's and thinking of getting rid of it. But would it look good getting it refinished, or would I be throwing $ down the drain and still have a 1980's floor?
Justin Westgate Monday, 14 May 2012
Steve, you cant be serious about not sanding Parquet right? we sand 3-4 parquet floors every month. if your leaving big machine marks in any of your floors you may need to look at your buffing procedures. Hardplate or use a multi disk sander, your floors will be flatter, smoother, etc. but I know you were just kidding :))
Andre,Steve, we have sanded hundreds of parquet floors and have no issues with crosscut marks or any other sanding marks, and the color variation is the natural colors of the oak floors coming out, we were matching a adjoining floor that also had color variation.
Don't be afraid to sand parquet. I just did a huge floor and I have never sanded a floor before. I haven't put the finish on that is tomorrow. Something I found helpful in places where it was just to hard to sand, was using some mineral spirits and steel wool, feathering outward and wiping the top with something absorbent, quickly. It evened the coler of the old floor so it just fades out in spots that i can't reach, (and probably will have molding or 1/2 round on top anyhow. I am thinking I won't stain it at all looks so nice. (I have bright lights on it!!)
What is the going rate per foot to sand and refinish parquet wood flooring ?
You ought to warn every one about the toxic dust that's generated by orbital sanders. I had to clean my house for days after doing a small job and my allergies are acting up more than usual.